There are few experiences in life that blend adventure, natural beauty, and rare wildlife sightings quite like birding in the Eastern Himalayas. One such unforgettable journey begins in Dirang, a quaint Himalayan town nestled in Arunachal Pradesh. In the icy stillness of early morning, as the world sleeps, we set off at 2:30 AM, bundled up against the cold, with packed breakfast in hand, chasing a dream high in the clouds—Sela Pass.
At an elevation of 4,200 meters, Sela Pass stands as the highest motorable pass in the Eastern Himalayas, often blanketed in snow even during the winter months. The road winds steeply upwards, cutting through dramatic cliffs, frozen waterfalls, and coniferous forests that gradually thin out into a stark, snow-covered wonderland.
Our first stop just before the selapass, The Fire-tailed Sunbird flits gracefully among the rhododendron blooms, its iridescent feathers catching the morning light. Finches and Myzornis leap from one vibrant flower to another, filling the crisp mountain air with their melodic songs. Suddenly, the silence of the mighty Himalayas is broken by the haunting calls of the Himalayan Monal and the sharp cries of the Snow Partridge—echoing across the valleys like a hymn of the highlands.
We walk upto the frozen twin lakes, located in the pass. These mystical alpine lakes, shimmering in shades of white and blue, offer not only a surreal landscape but also a unique habitat for high-altitude birds. With scopes and binoculars in hand, we scan the glacial edges and surrounding ridges for avian treasures. The royal-blue Grandala adds a splash of magic against the snowy surface of the alpine lakes, its striking plumage glowing like a gemstone in the morning light. As the wind whispers through the mountains, the songs of birds seem to write invisible lyrics in the sky—nature’s own symphony echoing through the high Himalayas.
This rugged terrain is a haven for rare and elusive Eastern Himalayan bird species. Among the highlights are the Himalayan Monal, with its iridescent plumage glowing in the morning light; the hardy Snow Partridge, often camouflaged against the rocks; the vibrant Blood Pheasant, and the jewel-like Fire-tailed Myzornis darting through stunted rhododendrons. Overhead, massive silhouettes of Lammergeiers and other vultures soar across the stark sky.
Walking along the snowy trail, the only sound was the soft crunch of snow breaking beneath our boots. Guided by the distant calls of the Snow Partridge and the Himalayan Monal, we followed their echoes through the silence of the mountains—until we stumbled upon their delicate footprints etched into the fresh snow, a quiet testament to their presence in this frozen wilderness.
Perched atop a snowy rock, the Himalayan Monal stood regal and still, its vibrant plumage glowing against the pale morning light. It gave a loud, echoing call—as if summoning the day—while mists rolled gently across the Himalayan slopes, playing hide and seek with the wind. For a few fleeting moments, we watched in silent awe. Then, sensing our presence, the Monal spread its wings and soared gracefully to the top of the alpine trees, disappearing into the veil of drifting clouds.
Suddenly, a flock of Snow Partridges burst into flight from the edge of the mountain ridge, their wings slicing through the misty air. They landed just ahead of us on the snowy trail, calmly grazing in the soft morning light, surrounded by drifting fog. We dropped to the ground, settling into the snow behind a nearby rock, hearts racing. Quietly, we lifted our cameras, moving with the stealth of gorilla soldiers, trying not to disturb the magic unfolding before us.
After a few unforgettable minutes, the Snow Partridges took off once more, gliding down to the rocky slopes below the trail and vanishing into the mist. My guests, Mr. csaba and Robert, turned to me with wide smiles—then hugged me in sheer joy, celebrating our incredible sighting. In that moment, surrounded by snow, silence, and shared wonder, it felt like we had truly touched the wild heart of the Himalayas.
After an unforgettable morning, we made our way back down from Sela Pass. With the chill still in the air, we laid out our packed breakfast on the bonnet of our car—simple, satisfying, and surreal amid the snowy peaks. Energized, we entered the alpine forest trail like silent gorilla warriors, moving carefully through the moist, snow-dappled ground and towering, mist-laced trees.
Soon, we spotted a flock of Blood Pheasants grazing quietly on the damp forest floor. Some preened their brilliant plumage in the golden shafts of morning light filtering through the alpine canopy—a magical moment. We clicked a few photos, trying to capture their beauty without disturbing the scene.
And then, a delightful surprise—a Himalayan Pika, small and curious, darting between the rocks, foraging for its morning meal on the moist ground. It was an unexpected bonus, a perfect end to a morning filled with rare sightings and raw wilderness.
But birding at Sela Pass isn’t just about the birds—it’s about the atmosphere. The thin air, the crunch of snow underfoot, the silence broken only by distant calls, and the sheer thrill of spotting a rare species in such a remote, pristine environment—it all adds up to an experience of a lifetime.
By mid-morning, as the sun climbs above the jagged peaks and begins to warm the slopes, the activity increases and new bird species appear. The trail, though chilly and challenging, reveals its secrets slowly to those who wait patiently and look closely.
If you're a birding enthusiast or simply someone seeking a soul-stirring Himalayan adventure, Sela Pass deserves a place on your travel list. Just remember to prepare for high altitudes, dress in layers, carry essentials, and, most importantly, bring your love for nature and a sense of wonder.